Ghalamkari — also known historically as “Chit-sazi” or “Chit-gari” — is one of the oldest and most authentic Iranian handicrafts.
It is a traditional craft in which artisans use engraved wooden blocks and natural dyes to print intricate and elegant designs onto fabric. Ghalamkari is a fusion of painting, design, and printing that transforms simple cloth into a visually rich and artistic textile.
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History and Origins
The origins of block-printed textiles in Iran date back to pre-Islamic times, but the peak of Ghalamkari’s artistic and technical development occurred during the Safavid era. In this period, especially in cities such as Isfahan, Broojerd, and Kashan, Ghalamkari workshops flourished. Printed fabrics were used not only for garments but also for curtains, tablecloths, ceremonial textiles, and decorative coverings in religious sites.
Isfahan, the artistic capital of the Safavids, became the main center of Ghalamkari production, known for its refined patterns and vivid natural colors that reflected the artistic sophistication of the era.
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Materials and Tools
1. Fabric
Pure cotton is the primary fabric used for Ghalamkari. Soft, tightly woven cotton — and occasionally silk — is preferred to ensure smooth and even absorption of dyes.
2. Wooden Blocks
The essential tools are carved wooden blocks made from dense and durable woods such as pear, hawthorn, or wild almond. Due to the precision required, each color in the design has its own dedicated block. Skilled block-carvers create the patterns with fine detail.
3. Dyes
Traditional Ghalamkari uses natural dyes, such as:
• Pomegranate rind for red and black
• Indigo for blue
• Saffron and madder for yellow and orange
• Henna for green
While chemical dyes are now common for their stability, many artisans still preserve natural dyeing techniques.
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Production Process
1. Preparing the Fabric
The cloth is first washed to remove impurities and to prevent shrinkage during the printing and dyeing stages.
2. Applying the Base Color
If the textile requires a background color (white, blue, black, or red), the fabric is dyed uniformly.
3. Printing (Block Stamping)
The fabric is stretched over a flat table. The artisan dips the carved block into dye and presses it onto the cloth with even pressure. This step is repeated for each color using separate blocks. Accurate alignment of blocks is one of the most challenging parts of the craft.
4. Fixing the Colors
Once the printing is complete, the fabric is steamed to set the colors. This step ensures deeper penetration of dye into the fibers and long-term durability.
5. Final Washing and Drying
The textile is washed to remove excess dye and then dried under sunlight, which enhances color brightness.
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Traditional Patterns and Motifs
Ghalamkari designs draw from Iran’s cultural, natural, and historical heritage. Common motifs include:
• Hunting scenes with horses, deer, and birds
• Boteh (paisley) — symbolizing life and continuity
• Persepolis-inspired motifs
• Gol-o-Morgh (flower and bird)
• Islamic and geometric patterns
• Romantic literary scenes, such as Layla and Majnun
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Ghalamkari in the Modern World
Today, Ghalamkari continues to be a cherished craft in Iran and is recognized internationally as a unique textile art. It is widely used for home décor — tablecloths, bedspreads, curtains — as well as clothing, scarves, and various decorative accessories.
Despite the rise of industrial printing, traditional Ghalamkari workshops remain active, preserving the artistic value of handcrafted textiles. The Ghalamkari Museum in Isfahan showcases historical masterpieces and supports the continuation of this craft.
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Conclusion
Ghalamkari is more than a printing technique; it is a reflection of Iranian patience, creativity, and cultural identity. Every block-printed piece carries a narrative of heritage and artistry, connecting past generations to the present. Supporting this craft is, in essence, preserving an important part of Iran’s cultural heritage.
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Sources and References
1. UNESCO & ICH Documentation on Iranian Textile Traditions
2. Iranian Handicrafts Research Center (ICRO), reports on Ghalamkari
3. Visit Iran – Official Tourism Platform: “Ghalamkari of Isfahan”
4. Taste of Iran – Ethnographic study on natural dyes and block printing
5. Isfahan Handicrafts Organization – Historical and technical description of Ghalamkari
6. Iranian National Museum of Handicrafts – Ghalamkari section
7. Scholarly Articles on Persian Textiles
• Floor, Willem. “The Traditional Crafts of Iran: Textiles and Dyeing.”
• Thompson, Jon. “Textiles from Iran: A Historical Survey.”