I. Structure and Characteristics of Women's Clothing
Turkmen women's clothing, the most complex part of the traditional attire, shows a high degree of variation based on age, marital status, and tribe.
The Dress (Köýnek)
Features: A long, loose-fitting dress (reaching almost to the ankles) that has a simple cut.
Color and Material: It is generally made from Keteni silk fabric, with the predominant color being dark red (Gyrmyz Köýnek), crimson, or burgundy. Young girls also use brighter colors and patterned fabrics.
Decorations: The most important feature is the embroidery (Gül Düzmek), which is densely stitched on the collar, chest slit, and cuffs. The designs are mainly geometric and nature-inspired, believed to protect the wearer from evil forces at these entry points of energy (collar and cuffs).
Outerwear and Trousers
Çabyt: A long coat or robe worn over the dress, used for formal or daily wear depending on the fabric and decoration.
Balak: Women's trousers, which are cut wide and then tapered at the ankles, where they are delicately embroidered so that only the embroidered section is visible beneath the long dress.
Silver Jewelry (Zere and Göýçek)
Material: Primarily made of silver and adorned with semi-precious stones like red carnelian (agate) and turquoise.
Function: Beyond aesthetics, this jewelry symbolizes wealth, social class, and fertility, and serves an apotropaic (amulet) function to ward off the evil eye. Bridal jewelry is the heaviest and most elaborately decorated kind.
Key Pieces: Include Esik (large chest plaques), Boga (massive necklaces), Altyn Saç (hair ornaments), and Bilezik (wide bracelets).
Headwear (Scarves and Hats)
Scarves: Married women wear large, long silk or wool scarves called Çarşaf (Çarqat) or Gynqaj.
Yaşmak: A piece of cloth used by married women to cover their mouth and chin in the presence of elders or strangers, signifying respect and humility.
II. Structure and Characteristics of Men's Clothing
Men's attire is simpler and more practical than women's, designed to meet the demands of nomadic life.
Traditional Hat (Telpek)
Definition: A cylindrical or spherical wool hat made from Karagül lambskin or thick wool.
Function: It is the most important symbol of male identity and, besides heritage, functions as climate control; it is warm in winter and surprisingly cool in summer due to its thickness and insulation.
Types: Includes taller (Buhar Telpek) and shorter (Şipir Telpek) varieties.
Shirts and Robes
Köýnek (Shirt): A simple shirt, usually white, adorned only with delicate embroidery on the collar (typically a slanted or slit neck).
Don or Çapan: A long, loose-fitting, sleeved robe or coat worn over the shirt.
Material: Often made of silk (Keteni), cotton, or wool.
Color: Striped silk Dons with dark colors (like red and gold) are common.
Çekmen: A thick wool coat used for protection against the cold.
Trousers and Belt
Jolbar or Balak: Wide-legged men's trousers suitable for comfort and horse riding.
Guşak (Qusaq): A wide silk or leather belt that fastens around the waist, holding the robe securely.
III. Tribal Diversity (Cultural Map)
The primary difference in traditional Turkmen clothing lies in the types of embroidery patterns, color combinations, and jewelry styles, which indicate the identity of each tribe.
Teke Tribe: Characterized by the predominant use of dark red or crimson in the embroidery, with dense geometric patterns. Teke carpets and embroidery motifs are among the most famous among Turkmens.
Yomut Tribe: The use of brown and orange alongside red is common in their motifs. Yomut patterns often feature broken lines and large rhombuses.
Saryk Tribe: Known for using finer and more delicate patterns and thinner wool. Historically, Saryk also used lighter colors and finer threads.
Ersary Tribe: Tends to use darker colors and simpler patterns compared to Teke and Yomut.
IV. Ritualistic and Symbolic Function
Turkmen clothing is not merely an outfit but a statement of life and beliefs:
Age and Status: The attire of young girls differs completely from that of adolescent girls and married women. For example, brides wear the heaviest and most decorated clothing (with the most silver jewelry), symbolizing readiness for fertility and attracting blessings.
Spiritual Protection: The closed collar and dense embroidery along the edges of the sleeves and neck are meant to block the entry of evil and the evil eye. The large silver jewelry also serves as amulets.
Social Messages: The material, color, and decorations of the clothing could silently convey the wearer's social status, marital status, and even wealth.
National and Novruz Celebrations: During these periods, people wear new, traditional clothing with bright colors, expressing social solidarity and the beginning of a new season.
Conclusion
Turkmen ceremonial clothing transcends everyday wear; it narrates the history, beliefs, and handicrafts of this nation. This attire, with its masterful combination of local silk fabrics, meaningful embroidery, and voluminous silver jewelry, preserves the ethnic identity and provides a tangible glimpse into the rich culture of the Turkmens. The study and promotion of this clothing not only help conserve cultural heritage but also provide a basis for strengthening cultural diplomacy and fostering a better understanding of Turkmenistan regionally and globally.